The evolution of the traditional costume was held not only by external factors, but, as mentioned above, as a result of internal development. During the XIX – first quarter of XX century was the gradual replacement of one other elements of the suit: Magpies replaced kokoshniks, kokoshniki – povoynikami, povoyniki – scarves, skirts, tunics were replaced, caftans – coat, etc., is especially noticeable cut of the garment changed: kosoklinnye sundresses were replaced with round, outerwear with the whole straight-backed chair – clothes with wedges, then with tails, it was the turn of another type of cut: a suit was scoring at the waist with a luxuriant builds on the back. Markedly changed the fabric: homespun linen and wool gave way to factory cotton, silk, cloth and other new fabrics for the traditional costume. Stability of the basic types of clothes, their variativ NOSTA within complexes, the inclusion of Vova suit borrowing items of clothing, the impact on European fashion folk costume – all this found its reflection mapping in the lexicon. Fund terms of folk costumes og Romain and extremely diverse. For example, only Siberia AA Lebedeva was recorded 152 term to refer to outer clothing, 85 – to refer to footwear, 127 – for women's and men's hats. Among the terms under varying designations for a particular garment, you can select terms that are common to all the ter ritories of its existence, it's a shirt, dress, skirt, in Geneva, kokoshnik, cloth, shawl, scarf, povoynik, ports, coat, jacket, coat, coat, boots, sandals and t . etc., but at the same time, there are terms for train shutter virtually all options of a garment.
So, dress, depending on the cut, material, color, national origin, called variously shtofnik, amaranth, pestryadinnik, marennik, nabivnik, klinnik, Sayan, Kostychev, feryaz, kundysh … Women's and men's shoes, depending on the material, cut, destination, place of existence, too, is called by different names: boots, shoes, bottle, cats, shoes cherki, teal, botory, Kanysh, ichegi, uledi, pack, pistons, negovani, Scoot, obutki etc. Ladies shirts, under the rule of the basic term "shirt" could be called depending on the terrain stanushkoy, vorotushkoy, sheath, dolgorukavkoy, prohodnitsey … It should also be noted that one term often signified a few items or, conversely, the same subject in different regions of Russia and had different names. Thus, fur called top fur clothing, dress, short warm jacket with you and hand dushegreyu. At the same time, short women's clothing with straps were called dushegreya, whiling away, short, feather coat.
Wearables European-type things borrowed from the neighbors, were in people's life along with his name. However, on Russian soil, it often received a somewhat different voice: a European-style outerwear spenzel in Russian is called "pendel" "Pendelyushka" warm coat smartly-cut diplomat was "teplomatom" jacket – "spinzhakom", "penzhakom", etc. Thus, the Russian traditional costume known to us by the monuments of XVIII – first quarter of the XX century, is a rather peculiar phenomenon of popular culture. It is naturally dominated by the features that emerged in the local Russian soil, dating back to the home of ancient Russia, but borrowing from neighboring nations costume and Western European costume that occurred over the centuries, much transformed him. In this characteristic feature, which has a Russian traditional costume is an amazing variety of options in clothing Depending on age, social factors, the specific local situation in the comparative stability of the core complexes.